Aug. 25, 2010 06:00 AM

Deconstruct a sushi roll and what do you get? Sutakku, a small stack of rice on the bottom, a flourish of cucumber, fish, crunchies and smelt roe in a small tower on top. That's the new gorgeous presentation of our addiction to raw fish and rice, at the downtown Bonsai, on Jefferson Street.

If I have one complaint about sushi rolls, it's that you have too much, with eight pieces, of the same thing. I'm an eater who loves variety, and the sutakku at Bonsai shaves a roll down to four bites, with an equally diminished price. That means diners can explore more combinations for the same down payment.

There's also a handful of new dishes at Bonsai that range from really rare beef to a fish tartar nacho, if you don't mind mixing food metaphors. The new menu is dubbed Tapas, another rambla into foodie Esperanza. What this means is everything comes on the same size square plate, four bites mostly, and the highest price for any one plate is $7.

Bonsai has also re-opened for lunch Monday-Friday, and dinner Monday-Saturday. Call 232-8333 or check out its website,
­­- Mary Tutwiler

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