Eats

Lost tacos reappear at La Paletera

by Mary Tutwiler

Found! I'm talking about the superb tacos at Taco Tico, which closed over a year ago. Found! I'm talking about the superb tacos at Taco Tico, which closed over a year ago.

Owner Irene Salvatierra left the big barn of a restaurant on University for a rainbow bright concept on Moss Street called La Paletera. "Paletas" is the name for the crushed fruit popsicles popular in Mexico. La Paletera, which is a franchise, offers banana, coconut, mango, lime, strawberry, pecan, cookies-n-cream and leche quemada popsicles, as well as smoothies, ice cream, and fresh fruit cups. The fresh fruit concept is where the franchise menu stops. But don't let that stop you.

Salvatierra gives savory depth to the fruit snack menu with her sensational tacos. Personal faves are the Pastor (pork), Alambre (grilled steak, bacon, onion and bellpepper), and the Parrillada (grilled steak, grilled onions and chorizo). They come four to an order, which means you can mix and match, and the whole shebang will set you back a mere $6. I'm also partial to her tamales, both the pork and an unusual and delicate chicken filling. There's daily plate lunches, super nachos and a burger that gets the La Paletera touch, along with the usual meat patty, bacon, cheese lettuce, tomato and onion, Salvatierra slips in a pineapple slice. Sweet.