Lafayette's Ruffino's on the River has taken its place among our many establishments worthy of note and, in this case, The James Beard Foundation.
Shrimp corndogs are among the appetizers chef Peter Sclafani will serve Saturday.
The pluses outweigh doubts when invited to a tasting at just about any restaurant. Ruffino's has proven itself by time and esteem in not one but two cities - our own and our state's capital. Lafayette's Ruffino's on the River has taken its place among our many establishments worthy of note and, in this case, The James Beard Foundation.
Yearly the foundation, eponymous of the deceased chef who was a famous TV personality back when only PBS dared think anyone would watch a dude making merry in kitchen, hosts a friendly dinner competition among our nation's finest eateries. Peter Sclafani, co-owner and executive chef at Ruffino's on the River, will make his second turn in the Beard kitchen tomorrow (Saturday, Sept. 13) following prestigious guest-chef duties this past April.
The dinner began with Sclafani explaining the six courses Ruffino's plans to serve. Its theme could be described as "an Italian showing the best of Louisiana." Andrew Price, the precocious sommelier and St. Thomas More graduate, described the wines he paired with each dish in the disarming and friendly way only a 24-year-old can.
HORS D'OEUVRES - served with Berlucchi Cuvee 61 Brut
Champange is always best with starters as it pairs well with everything and prepares the palate. Of the five the standouts were corn and crab shooters, tuna tartare cones and shrimp corndogs. The shooters were served in a shot glass and while rather hard to swallow it all down in one gulp, delicious. The corndogs are a fun take on fair food and the tuna, served raw in teeny ice cream-like cones, echoed the whimsey it seems the chef is going for.
HANDMADE MOZZARELLA A LA MINUTE - served with Prunotto Fiuloet Barbera D'asti 2011
Who complains about freshly house-made cheese? No one unless allergic! Unlike some mozz this was not too salty and the thick strips were dabbed with a lovely garlic. It was served with bruschetta from a wee glass jar and rustic bread as a bed for all the edible finery.
SCLAFANI SALAD - served wth Bertani Serole Soave Doc 2011
Sclafani said his grandfather came up with this salad over 50 years ago. It was beautiful with two fat Louisiana shrimp and two wedges of different heritage tomatoes.
PAPPARDELLE - served with Michele Chiarlo Tortoniano Barolo 2007
This dish is an example of pasta perfection: handmade pappardelle uniform in size and tender to the touch served with a ragu made from local rabbit and exotic chanterelle mushrooms. It was earthy and not too heavy.
CHAPPAPEELA FARMS DUCK - served with Jermann Red Angel Pinot Noir 2011
Duck leg boudin and seared duck breast with a foie gras reduction was terrific but the standout was the savory wild mushroom bread pudding. Do not be put off - think of it rather like a soft stuffing. I could have only this side and it would make my night. I might name my first born Wild Mushroom Pudding Purdy - so sorry, Mom and Dad, but it was THAT GOOD.
CAFE AU LAIT PANNA COTTA
Served in a coffee mug and made with Community Coffee's chicory blend, at first glance it looks like coffee but one plunge into the creamy deep brings up a spoonful of heaven. Airy and whipped to perfection this pudding-like concoction was made better by the teeny beignets that came with two equally teeny squirt bottles of raspberry and almond cremes for the pastries.
The wines proved exceptional matches for the dishes. No choice is easy when asked to create a menu meant to compete with America's finest kitchen magicians, but this choice is easy: Ruffino's has a great shot to become the next Lafayette eatery to win.