World class barbecue at Johnson's Boucaniere

by Mary Tutwiler

Ever since Johnson's Boucaniere opened on St. John Street, I've been walking (got to get some exercise somehow) over to chow down on boudin and smoked sausage. Those items are family traditions from the famous Eunice store that Wallace Johnson taught his daughter, boucaniere owner Lori Walls. The family focus has grown to incorporate Lori's husband, Greg Walls, who designed both the shop and the smokers, and who is now getting up at 3 in the morning to slow smoke country style ribs.

What I'm talking about is barbecue of the first order. They were already hitting on both cylinders when the family put pulled pork sandwiches on the menu, but Greg has busted the smokehouse ceiling with his ribs. What you need to know first, for all you bone-phobic folks, is these aren't really ribs, they are what's called a finger cut from a pork shoulder roast. They're coated with a spicy dry rub, smoked for four hours, finished for another two hours until they are falling off the bone (ha!) tender, then basted with the Wall's house-made barbecue sauce. The sauce itself is great, it's got a really fine vinegar note to balance the sweetness. Sauce the smoked meat and you've got killer barbecue. On the lunch menu Saturdays, a $7.55 plate includes a link of boudin or a scoop of jambalaya, and two sides, be sure to get the cornbread dressing. Check, or call 269-8878 for more info.